Paleochora seaside resort is now firmly on the package tourist map with a noticeable surge in new apartments particularly to the west behind the main beach. This is a huge 2km long sweep of fine but sharp sand. Paleochora beach is remarkably deep, unusual for a Greek island, and edged by banks of shady tamarisks and then the main road. Hidden under the tamarinds are a few basic beach cantinas and a small children's playground. On the beach proper sunbeds are relatively cheap and they are well spaced apart to take full advantage of the wide sands. The shoreline is not steep but it does have its fair share of large underwater rocks to stub the toes. These rocks surface at the western end to create interesting rock pools and small coves. A large sign to the west proclaiming NO NUDISTS HERE is completely ignored and this part of the beach was well endowed with naturists when I was there. Across town to the east is a narrow stone and pebble beach that is much smaller and rather less attractive than its sandy neighbour though it does have the advantage of lots of good tavernas nearby and easier access to Paleochora town.

Paleochora town itself is a sprawling affair of one way streets built on a rather dull square grid. But there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and shops to give it a cosmopolitan air given its backwater position so far to the south.
August is a good month for cultural events, especially the August 1-10 when a music festival is held. It is also a good bet for a later break as the summer lasts rather longer in the south than the north. Above Paleochora town is the recently restored fort Castel Seleno built by the Venetians in 1252 and rebuilt 100 years later after Cretan rebels destroyed it. What remains today is mostly Turkish, rebuilt in the later 1500s and open to the public. The town is one of the few that stays open all winter and a few tourists, mostly retired, are spending winter months here. It can be wet and windy but there are many days of warm winter sunshine to enjoy

This is a good base too for those who prefer touring to sunbathing. The road to Palaeochora from Chania is particularly scenic and well made. Majestic views await at every turn one you care into the mountains. This is another area where the murderous Germans left their mark in the last war with many villages razed to the ground, their populations shot or simply thrown into the flames. Many villages bear simple, austere monuments to the atrocities, the most noticeable in Kanados where the German sign in the village centre says 'HERE STOOD THE VILLAGE OF KANADOS, DESTROYED IN RETALIATION FOR THE MURDER OF 25 GERMAN SOLDIERS' - proud of it too then.

. A similar small plaque in nearby Floria bears a memorial to similar wanton acts of murderous revenge on the unarmed civilian population. Further west along the coast road of Palaeochora is Capri Krios where many idyllic coves and hidden between rocky outcrops. The best is at Halikia where there is a small harbour. Prigs should steer clear though as naturism is the norm on this stretch of coast..