Turning inland from the main road opposite Agia Pelagia, an old stretch of paved road runs from Ahlada to Fodele, connected by rutted, unpaved sections with other old roads inland. Ahlada's spectacular hilltop setting serves to detract from the lack of attractions in the village itself. If you're simply heading for Fodhele, you can get there more efficiently by taking the later turn-off about 3km west, but if you can afford the time to travel at a more leisurely pace, the old route is a great deal more diverting. FODELE is firmly established on the tourist circuit as the birthplace of the painter El Greco (1541-1614), although there's virtually no hard evidence to sub­stantiate this and most academic opinion now believes that he was born in Iraklion. The excursion is a pleasant one, in any case: Fodele lies in a richly fer­tile valley, surrounded by orange and lime groves.On the far side of the river as you drive up are a couple of small Byzantine chapels, and there's an ancient church in Fodele village.

Despite the craft and souvenir shops that line the main street, selling local embroidery, and the cafe tables ranged along the river bank, Fodhele most of the time is almost preternaturally sleepy - you can sit at one of these shady tables for half-an-hour before anyone emerges to take your order, and wait as long again before your refreshment appears. Meanwhile, take a few min­utes to study the plaque in the village square, made of stone from Toledo (where D.Theotokopoulos settled, produced the bulk of his most famous works, and thus earned the name El Greco).
The plaque was presented to Fodele in 1934 by the University of Valladolid as an authentication of the locale's claim to fame, which must be responsible in some measure for its current prosperity, whatever the scholars may say. To get to El Greco's House, cross the bridge over the river, pass the church (which has copies of many of his works) and follow the clearly signed road (right) which heads northwards out of town among orange groves, fragrant with blos­som at Eastertime. Now heavily restored, the building does not look old enough to have been around when the painter was, but having got this far you might as well see it - although the house itself and its spurious display relating the artist's life is rarely open. A better reason for making the journey is the charming, main­ly fourteenth-century church of the Panagia (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm, free), sited opposite the path leading to the house.
This exquisite drum-domed church was built over an eighth-century basilica - the central nave and the interesting baptismal font in the floor beside the church (deep enough for total immersion) date from the earlier building. The recently restored thirteenth- and fourteenth­century frescoes, partially visible through windows in the apse when the church is closed, were uncovered beneath later works, but the jarring glass windows in the dome spoil the overall impression. Beneath the orange groves surrounding the church are the remains of the medieval village it once served

A couple of buses a day run direct to Fodele from the Hania Gate terminal in Iraklion, but the timings aren't really conducive to a quick visit. On the other hand, it's not too far to walk back to the highway junction 3km away, so you could catch the direct afternoon bus up (currently 2.30pm, Mon-Fri only) and then try flagging down a long-distance bus on the main road. There are also occasional tours from Iraklion.
The visitor to Fodele can also enjoy the Cretan specialties at the taverns of the village, buy souvenirs of the Cretan weaving art from the small stores and, for the nature lovers, take a walk to the monastery of Agios Pantelehimon, an old one which played an important role to the history of the place. This walk, five kilometers long, follows the river side and passes through the forest with plane-trees and bushes. Experienced walkers will love it. At Fodele there are two beaches, the first near the national road provides some tourist facilities, with a big hotel, restaurants, cafe etc, and a car station. The other one is located a little to the west, accessible only from the village and there are no facilities to the visitors.

1 - Fodele Beach Hotel
FODELE BEACH, 25 km west of Heraklion international airport, lies on a unique location with a breathtaking view, on the exquisite sandy beach of Fodele area (birthplace of the world-wide famous painter Dominikos Theotokopoulos, well known as EL GRECO)