For ELAFONISI you've another 5km of newly asphalted road to traverse to reach the beaches. The almost tropical lagoon of whites and tinged pink by shells, aqua­marine waters, salt-encrusted rock pools and bright red starfish is still, despite increasing exploitation, as idyllic a spot as any in Crete. The water is incredibly warm, calm and shallow and Elafonisi - actually an island just offshore - is a short wade across the sandbar. There are more beaches on its far side (with waves), along with the odd ruined wall, seashells and a monument to Australian sailors shipwrecked here in 1907. A couple of simple cafes stand on the edge of the beach as you arrive.

Not surprisingly, all this has not gone undiscovered, and there are now two boats a day from Paleohora, a daily bus from Hania and Rethimnon, at least one bus tour as well as scores of day-trippers who often fill an improvised car-parking space to bursting. The arrival of the crowds has brought lines of sun umbrellas and loungers to the beach, but there's an almost total lack of any infrastructure to cope with their needs. The chief result of this is that there are often piles of rub­bish on the mainland beach - although bins have now been provided - and a soli­tary Portaloo is all there is in the way of sanitary arrangements. Next to this stands a somewhat incongruous phone kiosk, and that's about it. Rather than make a coherent plan to protect this uniquely beautiful place the authorities, par­ticularly in Athens, have largely abdicated their responsibilities and the future remains uncertain.

The beach itself does have some legal protection which allows no permanent structures to be constructed nearer than 1km to the shore, and hence the only accommodation is set well back. If you wanted to stay, Rooms Elafonisi  is a pleasant enough place and has its own taverna, but you may feel that the best thing to do here is to have a look and a swim, before head­ing on your way. Rumours persist that there are plans for a major tourist devel­opment of the waterfront despite strong objections from environmentalists, and the more cynical locals believe that big money and developers will win out in the end. For the moment things trundle along in the anarchic Greek fashion. If the worst should happen, however, it's to be hoped that something of the natural beauty of this place will survive the concrete mixers.
Walks from Elafonisi
Continuing south from Elafonisi is no easy matter on foot, though you could catch the boat if you were heading for Paleohora. There's a coastal path, reasonably well marked, via which you should be able to reach Paleohora in about six hours. Be sure to get some accurate directions before setting out, however, as this coast­line is barely inhabited and a wrong turn could lead you a very long way astray in hostile terrain.
Another walk is the 7km along a track heading inland to Sklavopoula and its satellite hamlets. The tracks to reach Sklavoupoula are clearly marked on the Petrakis Hanid Trekking and Road Map and also on the Harms­Verlag map. By continuing east through Kalamios, after 8km you reach the main surfaced road at Voutas, where there is no chance of a bus but you may be able to pick up a lift to Paleohora, a further 13km.